AND MANUFACTURERS OF
4059 Highway 99 W, Orland, CA 95963
Ph. (530 865 7010 ¨
Fax (530) 865 7875
Twin Cam Instructions
relatively simple, these instructions require strict attention to detail when
installing the blower in order to prevent serious damage to the blower, the
engine, or both. This procedure
assumes the individual doing the installation has access to the tools normally
associated with Harley Davidson Motorcycles, and has a working knowledge of the
V-Twin engine. If you are uncomfortable with disassembly or reassembly of the
Harley Davidson Twin Cam engine, you should not attempt this procedure and
instead, contact your local Harley Davidson dealer for recommendations on where
to have the blower installed. The
individual installing the MagnaCharger Blower should refer to the service manual
for your model.
Your MagnaCharger Blower comes with a couple of
specialized tools required for installation. There is a $100.00 deposit on these
tools since you’ll only need these tools once – regardless how many times
you subsequently install or remove the blower from the engine.
Disconnect the battery leads prior to continuing with the installation.
Failure to disconnect the battery leads could result in injury or death as a
result of fire or explosion while working in the vicinity of gasoline.
Cleanliness is imperative in all aspects of installing the blower. Long
term reliability will be directly affected by the care taken in ensuring no
foreign materials enter the engine during any stage of the installation.
the fuel tank and remove. Some
installations have been able to complete the installation by simply raising
the fuel tank approximately 4 inches at the rear, but access to the intake
manifold will be significantly easier with the tank removed.
the air cleaner and carb, taking care to properly drain the fuel from the
the front and rear exhaust pipes
those models with foot boards, remove the foot boards.
two of the three bolts holding the rear master cylinder, then with the third
bolt still in place loosen it so that the master cylinder can rotate freely
out of the way.
the cam cover
1999-2000 models, remove the cam position sensor from the cam cover. Under
no circumstances should the cam position sensor be installed in the blower
body prior to the step specified in the installation procedure below or
serious damage can result to the trigger wheel, or the cam position sensor
– or both.
removing the cam position sensor, you will have no further use for the cam
cover. Store it in a convenient place.
the spark plugs to aid in rotating the engine in subsequent steps during the
the Jim’s tools in the kit, retract the primary cam chain tensioner and
install the retention pin to relieve tension on the cam chain. Note that a
cam chain tensioner exists both on the inside and external side of the cam
plate. Retention pins should be installed in both cam chain tensioners.
turn the engine crankshaft until the alignment marks in the two cam gears
are aligned. This will also ensure the crankshaft gear is properly aligned
with the upper cam gear.
the bolts, washers, and sprockets from the crankshaft and the cam shaft. The
cam shaft washer will not be used again, so you should store this
the precision tool supplied, install the CNC machined fixture over the
crankshaft and bolt in place using the bolts provided. This tool is used to
drill the tube dowel holes into the engine block in the precise position.
the special modified drill bit (supplied with the blower), drill two
existing bolts to the larger diameter of the drill bit. The bit has been
modified to ensure the dowels are drilled to a precision depth.
drilling each of the two holes for the dowel tubes, remove the special
adapter, and store it and the drill bit in the original box so it can be
returned to MagnaCharger (There is a $100.00 deposit on this tool set).
Take note of the cleanliness of the engine, to ensure there are no foreign metal
chips or scrapings in the engine as a result of the drilling.
the plug in the top of the Cam support plate by pulling straight up with a
pliers. Replace this plug with the new plug supplied. This plug is the
oiling jet for the supercharger. Press the plug in to ensure it seats well
into the cam plate.
This next step is one of the most important parts of the installation.
Correct application of Loctite and the cleanliness of the parts cannot be
the crankshaft inside and out, with electro cleaner, acetone or lacquer
the new sprocket/blower drive gear, then coat the inside of the “D”
shape and the small recess with the #620 Loctite included.
the cam gear, and install the new crankshaft gear on the crankshaft. Rotate
the engine as necessary to ensure the timing marks are all aligned. You may
need to tap the blower drive sprocket ‘lightly’. It should be a snug
the crankshaft bolt and put a drop on the threads with Red Loctite, along
with coating the bold / shaft area.
the crankshaft bolt to 22 Ft-lbs.
1999-2000 models with the cam position sensor, place the new trigger wheel
against the cam, making sure it locks into the raised flange on the cam
This next step is critical, and as a result of the extremely close
tolerance inside the blower body, failure to comply is likely to result in
serious damage to the blower or the engine – or both.
the old washer from the crank bolt and drill it out to 3/8”. Use this
washer along with the cam bolt and reinstall the bolt as per H-D
instructions for your model.
the Jim’s tool, release the chain tensioner on both the internal and
external chain tensioners, then recheck the timing marks.
the bolts that attach the intake manifold to the heads, then remove the
rubber adapter on the intake manifold.
the edge of the intake manifold if necessary to ensure you do not damage the
o-ring on the blower manifold when mating the blower to the intake manifold.
Note that it is often easier to simply remove the intake manifold,
and install it on the blower with the intake manifold removed.
the blower manifold with a small amount of grease to ensure ease of
the vent kit you will find a couple of 90-degree fittings. Install these in
the heads for the top vent breathers. When screwing them into the heads, a
tighter fit can be assured by using a small amount of Teflon tape or other
type of sealer on the threads.
This next step could result in the introduction of foreign material into
the engine casing. Take extreme caution to ensure the right side of the engine
is protected prior to starting this step.
a cutting tool (Dremel is much preferred), remove approximately 3/16” from
the upper right side of the engine casing as indicated by the replacement
gasket (provided). If done with a tool such as a Dremel, this slight
modification will never be noticed – even if at some time in the future
the owner elects to revert back to the stock systems.
that you are able to screw one of the replacement mounting bolts through the
dowel tubes once inserted into the engine casing. You may have to shave a
slight bit off the dowel tube to ensure you are able to thread a mounting
bold through the dowel tube.
the dowel tubes in the engine casing.
the gasket on the blower and position the blower to align up with the dowel
tubes and the intake manifold. Install the new bolts (provided) and work the
entire unit into position. You should find it a relatively easy fit –
especially if the intake manifold has been previously mounted onto the
the bolts to make the installation permanent.
the cam position sensor if used, and re-route the wires to clear the
are two positions on the ‘gear driven’ cover to allow additional head
pipe clearance on some models. Install the head pipe, then rotate the
‘gear driven’ cover to the optimum position, and then torque those bolts
the front and rear exhaust pipes. Depending on the model, you may not
require any modifications to the exhaust system at all. On a recent
installation on a 2000 Fatboy, using Vance and Hines Long Shots, the only
modification necessary was the front pipe was extended 3/8” by inserting a
sleeve in the front header. This was a small enough change that the Vance
and Hines chrome heat shields still fit with no modifications.
on the model, you may need to move the footboard outward. On both a Road
King this was accomplished by installing a 1 inch spacer on the master
cylinder bracket, and replacing the original mounting bolts with two inch
bolts available at any hardware store. On a recent Fatboy installation, the
footboard was moved outwards by inserting 12 washers under each bolt, then
coating the washers with a black plastic sealer commonly used to build grips
on hand tools. This not only provided a wider base for the mounting plates,
but also provided superior rust protection at the same time.
the four bolts on the intake manifold
the upper blower brace by removing two bolts on the top, inboard side of the
blower, and attaching the support plate between the blower and the motor
mounts located on the left side of the engine.
the carb by following the simple instructions in the carb kit.
the air cleaner and choke cable, using the replacement choke cable
the throttle cables as desired to prevent interference, then attach them to
the throttle cables to ensure smooth throttle operation.
Always test for proper operation of the throttle cables prior to starting
the gas tank. Note that
following installation of the blower, owners will be required to use premium
the fuel line with a longer line than originally came off the bike. We do
not include this fuel line since experience has shown most owners install
one of their own preference anyway.
the vacuum line between the fuel petcock and the carb. This line is not
the vent kit using the tubing provided. Experience has shown it fits well
pointed immediately back from the rear vent, with a line approximately one
inch long connecting it to the rear tube, and the other line approximately 8
inches long, running beneath the blower intake manifold, to the front vent.
the battery leads.
The loctite will need 24 hours to cure before operating the engine for
the first time. Following reassembly, this will most likely be the hardest
part of the whole installation!
allowing the loctite to cure, turn the petcock on. It will require a few seconds
of cranking with the throttle shut to fill the carb. The bike should start and
idle as normal. If not, adjust the carb idle and fuel mixture. The proper idle
speed should be around 1000 RPM.
We’ve seen the “check engine” light come on, and it will do this
under hard acceleration because the parameters of the MAP sensor have been
exceeded. We have not found any problems other than the light coming on.
you have any questions or need assistance please call the Tech line @